solarbird: (Lecturing)
[personal profile] solarbird
A couple of weeks ago I needed to replace a floodlight and discovered makers have mostly stopped listing CRI numbers, which pisses me off, and that I think is probably because they've decided 80 is Good Enough, which - okay, it's pretty good, and it's a lot better than anything off a compact florescent bulb. But >90 bulbs are available and I want them!

So I started ordering high CR and replacing/relocating-to-less-important-area other bulbs and it's kind of got away from me a bit. Because if CRI data is going to be difficult to get I'm gonna buy a lot of bulbs that I know are right and install them because they will last a good little while, so.

(Don't get me wrong, 80 is entirely reasonable. But I can get 92-93 and I will pay extra for it, where 'extra' translates to "$1-2/bulb.")

I also figured out that what I was really doing when I was mixing colour temperatures of CF and traditional tube bulbs wasn't so much for the colour temperature itself as for filling in the gaps in spectrum and improving the overall CRI.

So if anybody in your house cares, these are good:
A19 60 watt equivalent: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O75K6AS/
A19 40 watt equivalent: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RQPHU5K/
BR30 (overhead can) 60/65 watt equivalent: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LTAOIA8/
"A19" means "ordinary bulb" for people who don't speak bulb types. The BR30s are not always as good in dimmers as the packaging says, according to reviews; I don't have any of that type dimmers, so I don't care.

If anyone is wondering, the CRI of LED filament bulbs is 80, which is, again, perfectly reasonable. But one can go above that if one so desires.

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